With the help of the old world, the wine business in the new world is growing up.
Recently, a small winery in California in a retrospective tasting by Robert Parker garnered seven…yes seven perfect scores of 100 points. This unprecedented occurrence represents a massive achievement, and will change the way consumers, the trade and members of the media think about the paradigm of viticulture and winemaking that have developed in this country over the past 30 years.
The winery in question was not an acknowledged “cult” winery with a sold out mailing list. It was not located in Napa Valley. It was not a producer of varietal wines. It was not a winery relying on a single vineyard or vineyard block or on a single clone on in fact any single thing that we have come to expect to hear about when speaking with winemakers or winery owners about their highly rated wines.
The winery is Vérité.
Since 1998, Pierre Seillan has harvested fruit from select blocks in outstanding vineyard sites, and produced over 100 different wines, all of them distinct, all of them outstanding. From these, he has created three different blends, following principles he learned during 30 years’ experience as a vigneron in the Bordeaux, in order to create an expression of merlot, another of cabernet sauvignon, and a third of cabernet franc. After 13 years of hard work, Pierre, with a little help from Robert Parker, has established not only himself among the finest wine makers on the planet, but Sonoma County as a viticultural area that rivals any in the world.
PAY ATTENTION NOW…The idea that the Napa Valley is the preeminent growing area for Bordeaux varieties in California is now in question. So is the idea that single vineyard, single block, and or single variety wines are the ultimate expression of California winemaking.
For years, California winemaking has trended toward expressing power in its wines: Wines that are showy and forward when young falling into the very American belief that “bigger is better”. Scores from most major wine reviewers supported this belief. The wines of Vérité come from an entirely different philosophy. They are not about producing examples of the most concentrated or big bodied expressions of a particular variety, rather, they are about creating a wine capable of expressing all of the facets of a variety; the way a diamond cutter works to expose the heart of a stone through his craft. They are wines of elegance, depth and length rather than power. They are wines built to develop with age. The recognition of their quality in such dramatic form represents a sea change that is significant.
I have believed the wines of Vérité to be among the finest produced in California since I had the opportunity to taste them in 2007. During a tasting with Pierre back then, I experienced a pure flavor of cabernet franc in one of his wines. Finding that flavor unique, I asked him where the fruit that delivered this beguiling flavor had come from. His response? “It is not where the fruit comes from that matters. It is what is blended around it. With the right merlot to lift up, and the right cabernet sauvignon to frame, I work to create architecture within the wine that results in those flavors…if you were to try that cabernet franc on its own, it would be nothing in comparison.” Think about this. It will change your view of wine.
When I asked Pierre about his accomplishment, he was obviously thrilled to have received such a strong affirmation of his efforts. “Yes, I have worked very hard to create great wine” he said, “but it would not have been possible without the vision and support of Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke. They saw the potential of Sonoma County and it has been an honor to be a part of realizing that potential…but,” he said with a smile, “we are only just beginning”.
I encourage you all to spread the word. I believe this represents a seminal moment in the maturation of new world winemaking and viticulture. We are leaving the world of single vineyard, single variety wines – the world of over-ripe, over extracted, overly oaked wines – the world of the obvious. Pierre, through his achievement has opened the door to the possibility that wine in the new world can be much more than obvious, it can be complex, layered, thought provoking…it can inspire passion, promote contemplation, and elicit an entirely new understanding of sensory pleasure. The wine business in the new world is growing up.